Rearset conversion, by TakWhy rear set?
Well, after wheel and suspension conversion, the bike steers much faster than it used to do. All the mods I describe here are pointing the same direction, ---fast steering, improved braking and road holding. With fast steering, the last thing you want to do is to put loads of steering effort through the bars, which is where the rear set comes into play. With foot pegs mounted further back and high, it's a lot easier to transfer all your weight to steer the the bike left/right/left.
And here's how to...
To decide the foot peg location, here's the guide line: Draw a horizontal line at swing arm pivot level, then draw a vertical line at the rider sitting point on the seat. This is your starting point. Move it a bit high/ low, forward/backward find out where you want them to be. Now, you have to make a decision. Are you going to make a set from scratch? Or, find some foot control set from a later model sport bike and adopt them to your bike? I did later option. 'Cause that's easier(less time consuming and less expensive.)
Take a look at your friend's bike, CBRs, GSX-Rs, you can make any of them fit, but some are easier to come by than others. One thing you need to remember is about gear change lever., if you can find a gear change lever with rose joint mounted at the top of the lever, then you can keep original (one down, four up) shift pattern. If you pick up the one with rose joint under the lever, you will reverse the shift pattern like a race bike. (one up, four down.)
As for brake side, get a complete set (hanger, foot peg, lever, master cylinder, brake light switch, etc.) The positioning of all these parts is an absolute nightmare and it's much easier to adopt whole assembly.
Gear change side, well, if you can find a complete set, that's fine. But you will need a longer tie rod anyway. And because of this, you don't have to have a whole set.
Next, positioning check (with cardboard template) and designing the adapter plate.
Now, you decided (roughly) where the foot pegs would be, it's time for cardboard template. When I make something, even a simple bracket, I do this. It's amazing how it can show a bad design before cutting metal...
On the brake side, you have to make sure that exhaust, kickstarter (in case your engine has one) will clear new foot control assembly. Also you need to think about (fabricate) exhaust mounting and rear brake reservoir mounting. Your brake pedal needs to be set a bit lower than it used to be, and you may need to change rear brake line.
On the gear shift lever side, be careful about sidestand. If it gets too close to the tip of gear change lever, you may need to reposition the stand (or, the rearset...). As I explained before, if you want to keep normal shift pattern, you need something like ZX-10's shift lever (which has the rose joint on the upper side.)
For the adapter plate, I used 3/4" thick aluminum alloy, simply because JP (the machinist) had them in the work shop at the moment. It doesn't have to be this thick, I guess 3/8"(10mm) should be fine if you use aluminum. I can't remember right now which aluminum alloy (ISO number ) I used , but it's 6000series. (The first number is the main alloying agent. 7000 series would be Zinc, 6000 is Magnesium and silicon. The other three numbers that make up the ISO number represent the percentage of other
ingredients that make up the alloy.)
Does it work?
The seat has been cut down, lowered about an inch in the rider's position, creating kind of small hump to sit back to against, in anticipation of all the acceleration to come. It works. The slight change in riding position has made the bike much better for cornering. And the beauty of this home made rearset system is that it's much cheaper than buying Raask rear set (which is only available kit for old GPz in US) And * you (the rider)* decide the position, not somebody else.